It is widely accepted that chefs are some of the busiest people around. Their working hours can be double that of most, with split shifts and six-day weeks the norm.
If the hours are not hard enough, they work in a hot and high-pressured environment surrounded by constant hazards. There is little margin for error in their world. It is not for everyone; but for those it is, they find a huge amount of reward and enjoyment in what they do.
One Brighton chef has been handling all those ‘normal’ pressures and more. Not content with securing the main dish on TV’s Great British Menu, Michael Bremner has also been busy opening a restaurant. Murmur is the sister restaurant to the critically acclaimed 64 Degrees and sees him move out of the of the Lanes to the seafront.
The new restaurant is a departure from the high-concept small plates of 64, with more of a traditional restaurant feel to the menu. That being said, it is not a departure in terms of quality. Murmur is traditional in that it offers a full dining experience from breakfast through to dinner, with an à la carte offering in place of the small plates or set menus that other restaurants have been favouring. Murmur is all about bringing an honest and seasonal dining experience to Brighton’s seafront that is relaxed and family-friendly.
Situated at the redeveloped Kings Road Arches, in the shadow of the i360 and with beautiful views of the West Pier, the location could not be more picturesque. Murmur has taken its name from the famous starling murmurations and it will be the perfect venue to enjoy this wonderful show of nature. With so few quality options along the seafront, Lucky Beach and Riddle & Finns being the others, it is a very welcome addition.
Having enjoyed an impromptu lunch on the terrace, tucking into a perfectly cooked lamb rump with basil fregola and courgette ribbons, I was impressed with the simple elegance of the dish. I was also lucky enough to attend the recent opening party where we were treated to numerous tasty morsels. Highlights included a wonderfully delicate fillet of plaice; a superb crab cake with sriracha mayonnaise; a caramelised cube of ox tongue with bone marrow mayonnaise that words cannot do justice to; and a dessert of lemon tart that, despite its solid appearance, exploded into a mix of lemony goodness when it hit your tongue.
In bringing Murmur to the city, Michael and his team have bucked the trend for trendy high-concept dining experiences and instead focused on creating something for everyone. To see such a high-profile chef investing in the city’s food and drink scene in such a way is wonderful. It reflects where Brighton has come in terms of its food and drink offerings, with quality options across every price point and style of restaurant. Murmur provides a seafront dining experience that does justice to the beautiful location, and that is something we can all get excited about.